Cosmetic science is not just about mixing different ingredients and (microbiological) stability of the end product. A good cosmetic scientist has knowledge about dermatology and hair technology, where relevant. The regulatory aspects of the cosmetic industry should be known and she or he should also understand the marketing side of the cosmetic industry. Understanding toxicology and microbiology are other important traits.

A cosmetic product is only successful when it is well-formulated, efficacious, safe, in compliance with the law and appealing to consumers.

In the light of the above, we think CLR Berlin’s expertise is valuable for our customers and distributors. Below you will find in-depth information on topics which we have recognized to be of specific interest to cosmetic scientists worldwide. By providing this information we aim to give clear and unambiguous information, supporting formulators in making the best cosmetic formulations possible.

Microbiome Dynamics and Skin Health

In this Cosmetics & Toiletries podcast interview Harald van der Hoeven, Director Technical Marketing at CLR, delves into the depths of: skin dynamics, skin microbiome species and balance, how replenishing the skin restores the microbiome, challenges and opportunities in this growing market, questions around efficacy measurements, consumer acceptance/​beliefs and needs, epidermal vs. follicular microbiome, and reducing acne and dandruff, among others.

He also presents the company’s ProRenew Complex CLR (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) and CutiBiome CLR (INCI: Octyldod­ecanol (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil (and) Piper Nigrum Seed Extract (and) Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract)—two ingredients shown to modulate the microbiome to: boost both skin and microbiome renewal, and reduce acne and dandruff, respectively.

Claiming efficacy in the cosmetics industry: consumer and legislation

Efficacy, providing a cosmetic effect, albeit reducing the appearance of wrinkles or hydrating the skin etc., is a key feature for cosmetic products. Claiming efficacy on the cosmetic pack or on the product’s website is an integral part of marketing the product. Promises are made about the results which can be achieved by using the product and, on the basis of that, consumers will want to buy the product. There are regulatory restrictions on cosmetic efficacy claims, though. These differ in different parts of the world and the regulatory texts are, in general, rather unclear. In essence, they say ‘you must not lie’. How are these regulations interpreted by the competent authorities? How does the cosmetic industry act within the framework of these regulations? How can it be made sure that the efficacy claims can withstand scrutiny? These are questions we get from our customers on a regular basis. This position paper was written to help the cosmetics producing industry in their judgment on how to go forward when wanting to make a cosmetic efficacy claim.

Sense about „Microbiome Skincare“

Our skin’s microbiome is set to become an integral part of skincare regimens in the future. A growing number of cosmetic brands anticipate on this by launching new products either positively influencing the ‘health’ of the skin microbiome or making use of ingredients based on microbes, mostly probiotics, or both. The question is, what is a healthy skin microbiome? And how can we make improvements in the skin microbiome? Is there room for improvement at all? What cosmetically relevant outcomes can be expected?

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